cannaboidmj
Cyborg
Very purty.
My Cramped Space
- Thread starter przcvctm
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Dandaweedman
Herbologist
Breeders and their time frames must be from clones... Sometimes it's wishful thinking :)
They do look awesome przcvctm. I can't wait to hear how much these yield because it looks like it's going to be a nice amount from here.
They do look awesome przcvctm. I can't wait to hear how much these yield because it looks like it's going to be a nice amount from here.
Sorry, cut and paste notes to myself.
"Krystalica has two distinct "phenotypes" which we will call Type A and Type B.
Which phenotypes in what % you will see in your garden depends on how many plants you grow out, plus the environmental conditions and cultivation style. You determine phenotype as much as the genetics may do! The less plants you have, the more slanted the results can be. If you wish to select the best female of a particular plant type you should therefore grow at least 10 females (20 or more seeds).
TYPE A (see photo gallery)
Highest calyx-leaf ratio, almost leafless top buds, buds are more spaced out.
High resin content on nearly all plants.
Grows tallest individuals.
Very mold resistant, best choice for humid climate and/or extreme greenhouse temperatures (40°C/105° F or more) during end of flowering. Both scenarios carry higher risk for bud mold.
TYPE B (see photo gallery)
Large pyramid shaped head bud and central body.
Highest yielding individuals.
Resin can extend to larger fan leaves.
Very heavy side shoots that may need support."
Right side, 1A. Left side front 1B and rear 2B.
"Krystalica has two distinct "phenotypes" which we will call Type A and Type B.
Which phenotypes in what % you will see in your garden depends on how many plants you grow out, plus the environmental conditions and cultivation style. You determine phenotype as much as the genetics may do! The less plants you have, the more slanted the results can be. If you wish to select the best female of a particular plant type you should therefore grow at least 10 females (20 or more seeds).
TYPE A (see photo gallery)
Highest calyx-leaf ratio, almost leafless top buds, buds are more spaced out.
High resin content on nearly all plants.
Grows tallest individuals.
Very mold resistant, best choice for humid climate and/or extreme greenhouse temperatures (40°C/105° F or more) during end of flowering. Both scenarios carry higher risk for bud mold.
TYPE B (see photo gallery)
Large pyramid shaped head bud and central body.
Highest yielding individuals.
Resin can extend to larger fan leaves.
Very heavy side shoots that may need support."
Right side, 1A. Left side front 1B and rear 2B.
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Dandaweedman
Herbologist
Congrats on the harvest :)
Sorry to mention this again, but I lOVE this new soil. I just can't grow with it in a large enough container (5-7 gal) to go start to finish water only, without using top dressing to supplement when it becomes exhausted.
I was giving Dandaweedman's WW thread a read and it had never occurred to me to veg in as small a container as possible to preflower rather than doing the traditional up-potting to the final container for most of veg and all of flower. A waste of soil (I don't recycle) for the males that are destroyed not to mention that trying to manage deficiency(s) during flowering must have some negative effect on the flowers.
I can sow a lot more seed in small containers, manage veg to preflower by using organic top dressings, then transplant the girls into 3 gallons of fresh Biochar to finish flowering. That's the plan. Thanks, Dan.
I was giving Dandaweedman's WW thread a read and it had never occurred to me to veg in as small a container as possible to preflower rather than doing the traditional up-potting to the final container for most of veg and all of flower. A waste of soil (I don't recycle) for the males that are destroyed not to mention that trying to manage deficiency(s) during flowering must have some negative effect on the flowers.
I can sow a lot more seed in small containers, manage veg to preflower by using organic top dressings, then transplant the girls into 3 gallons of fresh Biochar to finish flowering. That's the plan. Thanks, Dan.
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I'm afraid I screwed the pooch on this one. Again.
The grow itself went great, I thought. But as has been my problem for years, I just can't resist adjusting some aspect trying to improve because I read something on how someone respected does something different so I give it a try and fall flat on my face.
I usually allow my plants to dry for three or four days, then jar with a hygrometer, burping when the RH rose above 65%, then removing the hygrometers between 55-60% and sealing for the long term in a cool dark place. Always cured great. But I just had to mess with it trying for an even better cure. I let them hang for over a week in the low 60s in the dark of the tent and even on the last day the side branches were flexible. They would kink but not snap but I thought that that was long enough. Boy was it ever. I can't get a reading from any of the three containers of over 40% after 24 hours. 40% ain't going to cut it for curing.
How does over dry buds work for edibles?
The grow itself went great, I thought. But as has been my problem for years, I just can't resist adjusting some aspect trying to improve because I read something on how someone respected does something different so I give it a try and fall flat on my face.
I usually allow my plants to dry for three or four days, then jar with a hygrometer, burping when the RH rose above 65%, then removing the hygrometers between 55-60% and sealing for the long term in a cool dark place. Always cured great. But I just had to mess with it trying for an even better cure. I let them hang for over a week in the low 60s in the dark of the tent and even on the last day the side branches were flexible. They would kink but not snap but I thought that that was long enough. Boy was it ever. I can't get a reading from any of the three containers of over 40% after 24 hours. 40% ain't going to cut it for curing.
How does over dry buds work for edibles?
ZeroZero
New member
Too dry? It's easy to re-hydrate. I use a plastic bag or a saleable plastic box & add a slice of apple. Also I have used a light spray using distilled water. When I mail a friend any bud it's always dry so it doesn't 'talk so loud' saying "Here I am!" ;) Plus anything I send is vac sealed & wrapped in alum foil, then boxed & shipped. Whoever gets the pak can then re-hydrate. Zingo presto! Better stealth. My own stash, it's dry or moist, I don't care. I am not a fancy hippie, I just wanna get to sleep at night. :gramps:
Hope ya got em back where ya want em. Sure do look yummy!
ZZ
Hope ya got em back where ya want em. Sure do look yummy!
ZZ
Brought them back with Boveda packs. When burping, the flowers of all three phenos have lost the chlorophyll smell and at this point smell like flowery perfume. Not necessarily in a good way either. More like the way you smell when an old woman hugs you and the perfume odor clings to you all day.
east coast
TCC Staff
sorry to hear your pot is too fragrant. 
I've been vaping pheno 1A (the tall one) for the last couple of days. The taste is nothing like the smell described above. It's mostly piney, pine-ish. The effects are all in the head and creeper for me. All of the sudden it launches the brain until you feel like it's about to reach escape velocity and be too overwhelming then it flattens out to a decent buzz which isn't as warm or kind as I like. Sitting in the barber's chair an hour later I closed my eyes and felt myself levitating off the chair. Solid, but not a keeper for me. More for the adventurer.
Up next, pheno 1B.
Up next, pheno 1B.
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