C
Cannarado
Guest
Anyone try this Tiresias Mist?
Shmokin
aka Shmokin
I'm in the middle of trying to reverse Purple Urkle. I've sprayed a few more times than recommended and never so any burn so I have been upping the dosage. Right now I am seeing little puff balls 2 weeks into flower with a few spots in those puff balls looking like they will pop out a male flower. I sure hope so. Have you guys seen this happen...female flowers coming first then male flowers coming out of the cluster of calyx's?
I wonder if it's ExE trying his hand at it again? :teeth:
hela
TCC Staff
4.1 grams of the wet Sodium Thiosulfate are needed if 2.5 grams of the anhydrous salt is called for. The anhydrous form weighs roughly 2/3s of the wet form.
I was mistaken when using the "non-anhydrous" description!
This Sodium Thiosulphate is dry...small little clear pellets, not the flakes. I'm wondering if I can just grind it up and use the standard 2.5 gms of equivalent anhydrous ST? :scratch:
Ohsogreen
organic member.....
.Hello all.... I used to do photography for a hobby many moons ago. I mixed my own chemicals for processing photos. I think the reason allot of you guys are having problems with slow / semi-ineffective STS mixes - is because - the sodium thiosulfate being sold on Ebay is pentahydrate (NOT anhydrous). Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate is weaker than Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous.
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It will still work but you need to adjust the amount. The conversion formula is this : multiply the amount by 1.56 to correct it to anhydrous strength. The amount called for above is 2.5 grams. So to convert the pentahydrate to anhydrous strength we take the 2.5 grams (required) x 1.56 which equals 3.9 grams (which is a 64 percent difference in strength) ....ah...ha.....that's a significant difference isn't it.Using Part B at 64 percent weaker strength is most likely the reason for the very slow / weak reversals. So if you're using the pentahydrate, use 3.9 grams and I bet you will see a big difference.
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Hope this helps someone.......
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My mom was right, Math is a very important subject........
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Dman.... Pentahydrate (is with water), and is a bit easier to come by than the anhydrous (without water). Either one will work. The forumula corrections above dail it in....
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Hope that helps....
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Perfect...thanks Brotha! :adore:
ronny redeyez
New member
hello mate, i bought some GA3 the other day to use for germing some older seeds i've got. heres some info i got from the seller. also might add its very cheap. not sure what strenghts best to use to reverse a plant. but i'm going to try different strengths and see what happens.
Gibberellic Acid powder 3 capsule and Alcohol kit
Gibberellic Acid or GA3 is used for the stimulation of germination of difficult seeds.
Each capsule containes sufficient quantity (100mg minimum) of Ga3 to make a 500ml mix of water solution at 100-250 parts per million (ppm).
GA3 is best disolved in a small amount of rubbing alcohol (iso propyl alcohol)
This is also supplied in the kit.
Just fill the capsule with a small quantity of iso propyl alcohol, shake and once its disolved, mix with water to the required dilution.
Only use as much alcohol to disolve the powder, we have disolved the powder in less than 1ml.
It is best to make the solution in a container with a lid, an empty jam jar is good, as the disolved ga3 can be added then topped up with water and the lid put back on, then shaken until mixed.
(For breaking the dormancy in Sarracenia ssp., tuberous Drosera, etc., soak the seeds in GA3 for 24 hrs before potting up. It is best to wrap the seeds in kitchen paper before soaking to avoid the seeds from floating!
For the seeds of Byblis gigantean and Roridula dentate, a stronger solution will be needed - make up to a 200ml of solution. The seeds should be soaked for 24 hrs.
Undiluted the GA3 will store for 3 years if refridgerated. However, once mixed it loses effacy within a week.
Although GA is not listed as a 'poison', the following precautions should be observed:
Flush with water any GA3 that may get into the eye.
Avoid skin contact if possible and wash away any contact with soap and water.
Avoid ingestion of GA3.
Analysis:
A.I.Content 91.3%
Loss on Drying 0.2%
Specific Rotation +84 DEGREE
Heavy Metal (pb) <0.0040%
Pb Content <0.0010%
As Content <0.0003%
Heya Bro,
FWIW...I always used a 50/50 STS/distilled h2o ratio (2 applications) with absolutely no ill effects to the target plants.
First STS app, then plant goes right into 12/12....second app 2 weeks later. You should be seeing pollen dropping within about 2 weeks of second STS app (6 weeks from 1st app). ;)
FWIW...I always used a 50/50 STS/distilled h2o ratio (2 applications) with absolutely no ill effects to the target plants.
First STS app, then plant goes right into 12/12....second app 2 weeks later. You should be seeing pollen dropping within about 2 weeks of second STS app (6 weeks from 1st app). ;)
Shmokin
aka Shmokin
That sounds good, D. Wasn't sure if they could handle 50/50. I'll do that next time. They should be popping pollen here pretty quick, eh? I think I will wait until the balls get a bit bigger and then cut the stems and place them in water to collect. Any advice on when to cut the branches? With 2 plants almost fully male I'm hoping to pollinate a handful of branches on the outdoor girls.
Once I see the first few flowers opening, I just shake the plant over a large sheet of vapor barrier a couple of times a day ;)
Straightdane
Get it While you Can
Hey Dman correct me if I'm wrong,2+2 is 4 weeks from first app??:study:
Yep...math was never my best subject...lol! :tumbleweed:
It's all approximation based on strain Brotha. Usually, 4-5 weeks is the norm from first app, but some strains may take a full 6 weeks to start dropping pollen.
MyDBear
Not so Grumpy today
Yeah you and me both brother
Hello all.... I used to do photography for a hobby many moons ago. I mixed my own chemicals for processing photos. I think the reason allot of you guys are having problems with slow / semi-ineffective STS mixes - is because - the sodium thiosulfate being sold on Ebay is pentahydrate (NOT anhydrous). Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate is weaker than Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous.
.
It will still work but you need to adjust the amount. The conversion formula is this : multiply the amount by 1.56 to correct it to anhydrous strength. The amount called for above is 2.5 grams. So to convert the pentahydrate to anhydrous strength we take the 2.5 grams (required) x 1.56 which equals 3.9 grams (which is a 64 percent difference in strength) ....ah...ha.....that's a significant difference isn't it.
.
Hope this helps someone.......
.
My mom was right, Math is a very important subject........
.
spot on ohsogreen mate , i did exactly what you just mentioned i used 4 grams of pentahydrate after a photography friend pointed it out to me ,
i got the pursang , bubba and ecsd cc cut to reverse and chuck out loads of pollen , then chose a stella blue and let all three pollinate her , she's packed full of seeds . this is my first successful attempt using sts .
i made my sts mix like most of the recipes suggest but added the 4 grams of the penahydrate .
also i noticed when mixing the silver into the distilled water it was easy to be impatient and the first 2 attempts were a little cloudy so i really took my time and got it totally clear .
then i made the full strength sts but instead of diluting it as recommended in most recipes i used a new ec pen and diluted some of the mix till it was an e.c of 1.0 to 1.1 and used this to spray my plants ,
they were sprayed about 2 times before switching to 12/12 but intended to spray every day but didn't get round to it , after switching to 12/12 i sprayed every 4 to 5 days till i saw male flowers then stopped . i think this is key as soon as you see male flowers stop spraying ,
i had some more indica dom plants that i continued to spray because the sats were not showing males . i believe this is why the indica doms turned male but had no pollen ,
a friend told me another technique to reverse plants that dont normally give pollen . not tried it yet but will give it a go soon , it goes like this ,
put your female into flower then once she has little buds say 3 to 4 weeks into flower . take a pipet and using a higher strength sts solution carefully add a few drops to the top of the bud at the very end of the chosen branch . This should make the end of the bud herm out and ethylene pushed out the tip and drop pollen because its not a full reversal more a helped herm .
The second spraying a few weeks after the male flowers show in my mind is a blag and would surly fry the pollen in the buds , may be a half dose might work , but i have only heard of this on the net not from others that make fem seeds so not sure about this one . I do plan on trying it out though .
hope this helps
