digger
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You read my mind! Happening in the next couple days
No Smell
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You read my mind! Happening in the next couple days
Green Mopho
Grower of Many Things
Why all the changes in values day-to-day in your feeds? Stay consistent. IMO, your Mg is too high for coco. LEDs put off much higher PPFD with the proper proximity, so you may have to feed higher N, closer to 200-250 mg/L. And with matching those growth rates, you would need more calcium too. What are you using for trace elements? A lot of flavor comes from trace, not just sulfur. Make sure you have good levels of zinc and manganese, not just iron. Solpomag or K-mag or epsom or langbeinite are not good crude sources of sulfur as they have excess mg and K. If you are compensating for that in hydrobuddy, its ok, but you need to maintain those ideal ratios at all costs.
Also, that GH Calimagic stuff uses carbonates, I wouldn't use that in anything other then peat based mixes. Not for use in coco or rockwool. Overpriced crap, IMO. Just use the yara.
In coco, you would benefit in flavor and plant health by using some soluble fulvic and/or humic products. @CustomHydro has the Ferti stuff, which is great!
Also, that GH Calimagic stuff uses carbonates, I wouldn't use that in anything other then peat based mixes. Not for use in coco or rockwool. Overpriced crap, IMO. Just use the yara.
In coco, you would benefit in flavor and plant health by using some soluble fulvic and/or humic products. @CustomHydro has the Ferti stuff, which is great!
kushyman
Well-known member
coincidentally i grow with that now,,hen pellets w calcium too
started out with jug nutes..then mixed my own ..
then recently tried organic
its pretty easy and works ok..
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digger
Thread Revitalizer
Whats up! This is back when I was learning how to mix salts. I had just learned the math and trying to figure shit out. I use CHN's liquid trace elements. After all this time I'm still trying to figure out where my micro's should be. I believe my biggest obstacle is I reuse media since I cant afford to keep buying new. Sometimes I add oyster shell flower and gypsum. This is where I'm at today starting week 7 of flower:
153N-65P-375K-250Ca-75Mg-196S-2.5Fe-0.69Mn-2.0Zn-0.66B-0.66Cu
I use the liquid trace minerals, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, epsom, cano3, mkp and pot sulfate. Today I tried K-Prime (potassium acetate) for the first time from CHN.
Regarding the calmag, its not a part of any feeding program., but I still have it on hand and add a little to solution when I need to water clones or something like that and I want to give them a little more than water.
What would you suggest I shoot for regarding micro levels and is mg/L the same as ppm? I know I overfed this cycle because all my tips are burned. I'm going to try this same media mix again but not feed until the plants show they need it.
MyDBear
Not so Grumpy today
This is the first I've seen this post. It was written when I was away. In response to your last question, seems like you're learning my friend, listen to your plant. She will tell you what she needs or don't, it's up to you to figure out what she is saying. The most important reading you should take is the PH. If this is way out of range, then she is going to lie to ya. (example) say your ph is way out and is causing nutrient lock out. Her older fan leaves are turning yellow, telling you she needs nitrogen so you feed her nitrogen and she OD's on ya, too much N. Now if her new growth is yellowing that could be sulfur and not N. Mobile elements will show in the older leaves first and immobile elements will show in the new growth first. Don't be listening to some sales rep telling you that you need this or that, listen to your plant and check your PH often.
Green Mopho
Grower of Many Things
Save the K-prime for foliar feeding, around day 25-30.
Yes, ppm=mg/L
Your ratios look decent. Pretty low N tho, what’s your PPFD? If your N is that low, you can slightly lower Mg too.
Micro targets:
Fe 3-4ppm
Mn 2-3
Zn 1.5-2
Cu 1-1.5
B 1
Mo 0.1
digger
Thread Revitalizer
Will do on the K-prime, I bought it for foliar but decided to use it to replace pot sulfate in the feed for today and tomorrow (thats how long it takes to empty the reservoir). Thank you for the micro numbers, are those for coco only or just in general? I dont know what my PPFD is, but the way about half of my garden responded this time, next round, I could go up 20-40ppm on the N to start, and make sure I dont let them dry out too much before watering. I should have started the timer feedings sooner this season.
Green Mopho
Grower of Many Things
What wattage are your lights, how far from canopy, and do you have them at 100%?
Butcher Bob
Lone Wolf
Interesting...I've mostly been in soil/peat, so I've always just used agricultural powdered sulfur.
Green Mopho
Grower of Many Things
That powdered elemental sulfur will drop your pH and at high amounts can slow down your microbial life. The pelletized is better because it takes longer to break down than the powder. And in peat-based soil, you'd have to really buffer pretty high with lime or similar to keep your pH even when adding a ton of sulfur.
digger
Thread Revitalizer
I think 650w, running around 80% and approximately 24-26 inches above canopy. The light is a SpyderX knockoff. You can see it here. The QB 96's are no longer on it.
Winter Into Spring
$8??? for a 20# tank? It's $45 here and the guy told me if I need a tank and dont have a trade in, its $238.00 You ought to look around to find cheaper refills and the tanks should cost more like burnie said $130. Before legalization I do remeber paying 20-25 for a refill, now the bug grow...
thecannacabana.com
Butcher Bob
Lone Wolf
Have always used the powdered sulfur sparingly...the whole less is more principle.
And because I use peat based mixes, they get not only granulated lime for ph buffering but also worm castings and mycorrhizae, as it is my understanding that a complete micro package and the bio-herd help keep the ph in balance as well.
And because I use peat based mixes, they get not only granulated lime for ph buffering but also worm castings and mycorrhizae, as it is my understanding that a complete micro package and the bio-herd help keep the ph in balance as well.
