UV Water Sterilizer

In 2022 I got to run a very expensive and large aeroponic facility. I hadn't done aero or DWC in over a decade, but not much changed as far as your options for root conditioning. Basically, you can use biologicals, like bacillus, trichoderma, and mycorrhizae, but they have mostly insoluble carrier powders and will also leave other types of biofilm and sediments in your system. The other option is to run sterile, where your options are basically chlorine compounds or H2O2.

UC roots is hypochlorous acid, and is insanely priced for the concentration you are getting. Adding H2O2 to chlorinated water will oxidize the water and create chlorine gas and make both the chlorine and peroxide dissipate faster. Don't use both, use one or the other. Chlorine compounds will stay around a lot longer than peroxide. Peroxide will only linger around 12 hours, and can also cause major oxidative damage at too high of a rate. Its only good if you have an active root infection and want to work immediately to fight it.

I found that beneficial biology to be the most effective in rooting clones, and then switching to a sterile system. Don't bother with ORP meters and readings. Buy some free chlorine test strips and keep your free chlorine around 1-3 ppm all the time. Calcium hypochlorite (pool shock treatment) is a good option for constant use, say every 2-3 days, as your plants will also use the calcium up. You can also use sodium hypochlorite (bleach) when in a bind, but it does add sodium to the system, so I wouldn't regularly add it, but you could use it as a dirt cheap cleaner in between runs.

As far as the TDS of your water coming in, 280 ppm is a problem, and its not the chlorine or chloramine content thats the worry. If you had a buffered media like soil or coco or peat, it would be way less of an issue as the media itself will buffer some of that. But in DWC, your roots are swimming in that tap water, and probably a good bit of sodium, magnesium, carbonate, bicarbonate, etc., plus potentially toxic amounts of copper and possibly some lead, arsenic, causing all sorts of issues. I would invest in an RO system, even a very small one. Small RO systems are very slow, so you could put it on a float valve on the whole system to replenish the water that your plants are transpiring. A healthy aero or DWC system generally means the plants are drinking more than they are eating, and keeping your nutrient TDS/EC consistent means constantly adding back more water. Plus, the treatment they are putting in is at also to keep the old plumbing and pipes from leaching more metal that they need to. The ideal levels are added at the treatment plant, miles from where you are using it, so there is still plenty of plumbing between you and the treatment plant for the water to get re-contaminated. Have you seen the insides of some of those 30+ year old city pipes?

As far as biological contaminants coming in your tap water, this is very possible. Most municipal water is treated with the minimum threshold levels of chlorine, etc. to kill biological contaminants. They are trying to get rid of E. Coli and other harmful microbes to humans, but the last thing they are thinking about is a recirculating bare root plant growing system. I have seen plenty of algae and cyanobacteria come through municipal water, and even make it through RO membranes to the other side. Adding a UV filter after your RO is ideal, but will only stop some of the potential microbial contamination coming in. You still need to maintain ideal free chlorine levels to keep everything back.

At the end of the day, growing like this is such a hassle and requires all this extra steps, cleaning, chemicals, that I found it not worth it. Just grow in coco!
 
Thinking about going with this one
I can drain the waste water into buckets and toss on the lawn?

Southern AG Fungicide still something to use with RO water? I use GH micro and bloom. Looking at cost, should I add Cal-Mag to the mix or epsom salt or pool shock?


In 2022 I got to run a very expensive and large aeroponic facility. I hadn't done aero or DWC in over a decade, but not much changed as far as your options for root conditioning. Basically, you can use biologicals, like bacillus, trichoderma, and mycorrhizae, but they have mostly insoluble carrier powders and will also leave other types of biofilm and sediments in your system. The other option is to run sterile, where your options are basically chlorine compounds or H2O2.

UC roots is hypochlorous acid, and is insanely priced for the concentration you are getting. Adding H2O2 to chlorinated water will oxidize the water and create chlorine gas and make both the chlorine and peroxide dissipate faster. Don't use both, use one or the other. Chlorine compounds will stay around a lot longer than peroxide. Peroxide will only linger around 12 hours, and can also cause major oxidative damage at too high of a rate. Its only good if you have an active root infection and want to work immediately to fight it.

I found that beneficial biology to be the most effective in rooting clones, and then switching to a sterile system. Don't bother with ORP meters and readings. Buy some free chlorine test strips and keep your free chlorine around 1-3 ppm all the time. Calcium hypochlorite (pool shock treatment) is a good option for constant use, say every 2-3 days, as your plants will also use the calcium up. You can also use sodium hypochlorite (bleach) when in a bind, but it does add sodium to the system, so I wouldn't regularly add it, but you could use it as a dirt cheap cleaner in between runs.

As far as the TDS of your water coming in, 280 ppm is a problem, and its not the chlorine or chloramine content thats the worry. If you had a buffered media like soil or coco or peat, it would be way less of an issue as the media itself will buffer some of that. But in DWC, your roots are swimming in that tap water, and probably a good bit of sodium, magnesium, carbonate, bicarbonate, etc., plus potentially toxic amounts of copper and possibly some lead, arsenic, causing all sorts of issues. I would invest in an RO system, even a very small one. Small RO systems are very slow, so you could put it on a float valve on the whole system to replenish the water that your plants are transpiring. A healthy aero or DWC system generally means the plants are drinking more than they are eating, and keeping your nutrient TDS/EC consistent means constantly adding back more water. Plus, the treatment they are putting in is at also to keep the old plumbing and pipes from leaching more metal that they need to. The ideal levels are added at the treatment plant, miles from where you are using it, so there is still plenty of plumbing between you and the treatment plant for the water to get re-contaminated. Have you seen the insides of some of those 30+ year old city pipes?

As far as biological contaminants coming in your tap water, this is very possible. Most municipal water is treated with the minimum threshold levels of chlorine, etc. to kill biological contaminants. They are trying to get rid of E. Coli and other harmful microbes to humans, but the last thing they are thinking about is a recirculating bare root plant growing system. I have seen plenty of algae and cyanobacteria come through municipal water, and even make it through RO membranes to the other side. Adding a UV filter after your RO is ideal, but will only stop some of the potential microbial contamination coming in. You still need to maintain ideal free chlorine levels to keep everything back.

At the end of the day, growing like this is such a hassle and requires all this extra steps, cleaning, chemicals, that I found it not worth it. Just grow in coco!
 
Thinking about going with this one
I can drain the waste water into buckets and toss on the lawn?

Southern AG Fungicide still something to use with RO water? I use GH micro and bloom. Looking at cost, should I add Cal-Mag to the mix or epsom salt or pool shock?
You don't have UV sterilization with that filter, but it is certainly an improvement from 280ppm. You can run the gray water waste line to your lawn, yes. But to buckets? You may flood your space and might want something that can continually collect it, or run it to the drain line of your house.

Which ingredient/product fungicide from Southern AG have you been using? In the root zone or as a foliar treatment?
 
You don't have UV sterilization with that filter, but it is certainly an improvement from 280ppm. You can run the gray water waste line to your lawn, yes. But to buckets? You may flood your space and might want something that can continually collect it, or run it to the drain line of your house.

Which ingredient/product fungicide from Southern AG have you been using? In the root zone or as a foliar treatment?
I have a 55 gallon rez I can use with a timer to control the flow so it doesn't flood. Sounds like more work than needed, so I'll probably just connect it to the drain line.
I use a UV light in the two current 13 water holding reservoirs that have h2o2 in them. Moving away from h2o2
I know the Southern AG and UV lights don't mix so I don't have a UV light in the 13 gallon water holding rez with Southern AG. Every 7 days add in the AG

Southern Ag Garden Friendly Bio Fungicide Organic https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014174BZM
1 mil concentrate for every 10 gallons every 7 days, I put it in the grow rez.

There is another RO setup with a UV light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787N749Y
that one also has -
This unit includes an additional 6th stage-Alkaline Remineralization filter which adjust PH of pure water to 7.5-8.5, Adds Calcium, magnesium, sodium and potassium ions back to the Ro water

Bolded is good, right?
If not they have another setup without that feature
 
I have a 55 gallon rez I can use with a timer to control the flow so it doesn't flood. Sounds like more work than needed, so I'll probably just connect it to the drain line.
I use a UV light in the two current 13 water holding reservoirs that have h2o2 in them. Moving away from h2o2
I know the Southern AG and UV lights don't mix so I don't have a UV light in the 13 gallon water holding rez with Southern AG. Every 7 days add in the AG

Southern Ag Garden Friendly Bio Fungicide Organic https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014174BZM
1 mil concentrate for every 10 gallons every 7 days, I put it in the grow rez.

There is another RO setup with a UV light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787N749Y
that one also has -
This unit includes an additional 6th stage-Alkaline Remineralization filter which adjust PH of pure water to 7.5-8.5, Adds Calcium, magnesium, sodium and potassium ions back to the Ro water

Bolded is good, right?
If not they have another setup without that feature
Bacillus amyloliquefaciens is a good biofungicide for foliar treatment, but not sure how will it fights off root borne fungal pathogens. I have played with trichoderma before and that does an amazing clean up job in the root zone. But none of those are compatible with H2O2 or hypochlorous acid. I would stick to the pool shock as your root zone conditioner, especially if planning on using UV sterilization.

That remineralization filter is for human drinking water and adds carbonates, which isn't what you want for your hydroponic plants. You can just not install it or get another model that doesn't have it.
 
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Bacillus amyloliquefaciens is a good biofungicide for foliar treatment, but not sure how will it fights off root borne fungal pathogens. I have played with trichoderma before and that does an amazing clean up job in the root zone. But none of those are compatible with H2O2 or hypochlorous acid. I would stick to the pool shock as your root zone conditioner, especially if planning on using UV sterilization.

That remineralization filter is for human drinking water and adds carbonates, which isn't what you want for your hydroponic plants. You can just not install it or get another model that doesn't have it.
OK, I'll pass on that extra filter.

Question - Why would using the UV light in the RO setup matter as far as what to use? Or are you referring to a UV in a reservoir? I think you are referring to the 2nd question but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

As far as the Fungicide AG, it works extremely well on roots. Whitest roots I've ever had so I'm going to stick with it for now. I may try a side by side with Pool Shock next grow.
Doing a side by side with plants using h2o2 in one and the AG in another, the AG plants roots are slightly better. Could have been because, at first, I was using the h2o2 every 4 days instead of 3 times a week?
However, the h2o2 plants, the part above the water line, is an off white color. The Southern AG plants roots are white all over.

Thx for the info. It's much appreciated.
 
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I am using the electric kettle size HOCL maker...

so far

1.no ppm level burns leaves..even 2000ppm..

2.my lettuce. has been pm free ,usually succumbs ,and I have noticed there are very few fungus gnats..

3.i have tried it with cannabis..but not enough to say it will prevent pm when used as a prophylaxis..ie no weekly regimen like the Romaine
 
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