thrip control

kouchkushins

kouchkushins

Member
i’m currently on the fence on if this is the right approach to my situation i currently been using lost coast plant therapy with iso alcohol i even let the media completely dry as i heard they lay spawn in the soil it slow them down temporarily but never kills them off ive been researching and came to the conclusion of using captain jacks dead bug brew and after treating them i plan on flipping to flower and usually i like to spray micronized sulfur to combat pm in flower i was wondering if anybody had experience using the two without seeing any problems i guess i can always use a tester branch but didn’t think it would hurt to ask thanks in advance cheers🤙
 
Dealing with thrips myself just finished a harvest that was damn neat infested and got rid of all the coco pots and now I’m trying to battle them on 1 gallons before I flip to flower
 
kouchkushins said:
i’m currently on the fence on if this is the right approach to my situation i currently been using lost coast plant therapy with iso alcohol i even let the media completely dry as i heard they lay spawn in the soil it slow them down temporarily but never kills them off ive been researching and came to the conclusion of using captain jacks dead bug brew and after treating them i plan on flipping to flower and usually i like to spray micronized sulfur to combat pm in flower i was wondering if anybody had experience using the two without seeing any problems i guess i can always use a tester branch but didn’t think it would hurt to ask thanks in advance cheers🤙
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Captain jacks dead bug also! Great for two spotted mites also. I spray weekly until week 2 of flower then it’s just Dr zimes from that point.
 
Just bought captain jacks dead bug and azamax on recommendation from the hydro store manager(we talk canna a lot and I trust him) he said to mix the both and they will knock out pesky thrips.
Any one got any info on mixing both?
 
Before I moved to soil growing, I had problems with thrips via the commercial "grow mediums". The last and most effective way (and safest way ) that I "controlled them" was by taking the clay balls used in hydro systems and putting them in a pail with a lid. I then dumped in a copious amount of diatomaceous earth, I then rolled the pail around dusting the clay balls with the powder. I placed a layer of these balls on the top of my pots right after watering the plants. This makes the bugs crawl over the diatomaceous earth any time they move above the soil surface. It worked quite well, with the exception that I would have to vacuum them off of the soil surface, screen them to remove the excess dirt, and then re-dust them before re-use. Typically, they would last through more than one watering, but it is also another chore that you may not wish to employ... it was however, effective at knocking the hell out of their numbers. If you are near harvest and you don't want to spray, you might wish to try this method... it's fairly cheap, and certainly a safer choice than some others.
 
Sorry about the thrips. Sprays help but don’t eliminate.
Thrips need to be attacked from 3 different angles. Spray, sticky traps and nematodes if possible.

I’ve had thrips a few times and I grow organically with no harmful sprays. First I tried to use essential oils. Helped for a week or so, then they came back with a vengeance. Essential oils are effective in an IPM regimen not as a solution.

Then I tried sulfur. It worked for the most part. But I don’t grow in a sealed area (but not outdoors) so I believe they overwintered nearby and came back the next spring.

Then I was properly advised by experienced growers on how to tackle my issues. I ended up using an oil called Monterrey Horticultural Oil. It’s from the same maker of Suffoil X I believe. Also nematode sF for my soil. Complete with sticky traps at the base of the plants.

I finally got rid of them and it’s been about a year now. But something I learned in the process is that sometimes you can’t control nature. And also, on the bright side you can always terminate everything and start over with fresh seeds 🤷🏻‍♂️

Good luck
 
My fight against thrips and aphids ended after I used Chester Boones All Purpose and Pure. I followed the instructions but went a little light on the application using a cheap fogger purchased on amazon. I didnt have a full-blown infestation but just happened to notice a bug flying that looked like a gnat.
I started on Tuesday and used Chester Boones All Purpose at the recommended dosage minus 10%. That following Friday, I used Chester Boones PURE ....minus 10%. Once Tuesday came around(7 Days), I fogged again with the All Purpose and the following Friday with the Pure! I did this for a month and then dropped the PURE and just used the ALL PURPOSE. After about 2 weeks, I mixed the PURE with beauveria bassiana and sprayed the top of the soil and around the bottom stem......do not spray the leaves with this combination.
My fogging was done during lights off in each instance. I just chopped some males that had gotten out of hand. I did not find any insects nor did I find any in the coco.
I now treat both coco and my pro mix soil with the PURE and beauveria bassiana a week before I do any transplanting. In short, alternating with different products sometimes produces a desired effect.
 
Beneficial nematodes, SF/ Steinernema feltiae to interrupt the reproduction cycle in the soil along with Cucumeris predatory mites.
Sulfur sprays for the canopy before flower, spraying once and again two days later. Followed by beneficials/predatories.
Spraying water works pretty well at removing them from the canopy.

Intense drybacks seem to increase populations.
 
dBMachine said:
I sprayed wettable sulfur and it didn't seem to do much for the thrips. It just smelled like rotten eggs.

But a single spray of Monterey Garden Insect seemed quite effective. It's spinosad, I think. Indoor use only, it will mess up bees.
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Indoor use only? Its been a while since Ive read the label but I would think it says the opposite? Most pesticide half-lifes are based on the sun, and not indoor lights, which take way longer to break down pesticides in plants and room surfaces.
 
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