Guide to Regenerative Mineral Soil

Green Mopho

Grower of Many Things
So as some of you know, I'm not a fan of the everything-but-the-kitchen-sink living soil water-only mixes. In my experience, they either produce quality OR yield, rarely both. To have the right sized container and expect every mineral to digest and release right on time is unrealistic and very hard to pull off. Add to that, different varieties, growing styles, veg times, container sizes, source water, PPFD, DLI, wet/dry cycles. There is just too much guessing and everything in there will get in the way of everything else. How do you taper off certain nutrients or boost others at different times? And then repeat this exact timing when you recycle the soil. You don't, you hope the microbes do, but microbes move at their own pace. Plus, you can't only use biology to create ions that are just not there enough in the soil and the removal rate may be very high by the plant itself, or even a cover/companion crop. You can't create more boron out of the air with just microbes. Some ions like potassium don't change much availability through biological action.

So what happens with these mixes, very little math or precise measuring, and instead a whole lot of guessing.

However, I should say, I do love the effort and love the people trying to do better by the earth and by the plant! I’m not saying this to hate on anyone or anything. I’m just trying to find a better way.

A lot of proponents of living soil and organics say things like, “feed the soil, and let the soil feed your plant”. But our native agricultural soils are already depleted, which is why we are having this conversation in the first place and opting to mix our own soil. If we had amazing well balanced soil out there in nature, we would just walk out there and fill some pots up with it. The reality is that healthy plants create healthy soil! And we want to create the healthiest plants possible for our consumption and enjoyment.

The concept of “regenerative farming” is regenerating the soil. And that really means plants capturing atmospheric CO2 through photosynthesis and sequestering that carbon into the soil as organic matter. But for us to maximize this cycle, we need really healthy plants, which require certain elements present in certain plant-available forms and ratios. So we need to look at all the tools we have to grow really healthy plants and use them accordingly. Not just things labeled “OMRI” or organic. As cannabis growers, when have we really trusted the government? And we will trust them to tell us what “certified” inputs we should use? On the flipside, most of us have witnessed that the greater amount of biological inputs we use, the better QUALITY our end result is. Which is really what our goal should be…

So what about a lighter soil mix, that still harbor the same, if not more, probiotic activity? Well, let's look at soil biology and how that interacts with soil chemistry for a moment. The soil food web is incredibly complex and we understand very little of what actually goes on. Studies have been done on specific isolated microbes and some basic relationships have been studied between how they interact with each other, plant roots, and minerals.

But what about what we do know?...

Starting with the nitrogen cycle. We know that in nature, there is a nitrogen cycle, from atmospheric nitrogen, to nitrate, to nitrite, to ammonium, and then on to amino acid forming proteins. Then those proteins die and decompose and the cycle starts over. But thanks to nitrogen fixing species, we have an unlimited supply of N2 to draw from. But we can't get to it until we have at least established a healthy and diverse soil community and at least some basic plants that can feed sugars to those microbes and begin to assimilate and cycle this nitrogen. It should also be noted that deep subsoils can also contain trapped nitrates, which is where some nitrate compounds are mined from.

The nitrate cycle has certain cofactor elements that are necessary for the nitrogen to cycle, such as sulfur, magnesium, molybdenum, cobalt, and nickel. So for this to all work, these elements have to be present and available.

Next is phosphorus. Phosphorus is one of the most abundantly reactive elements on earth. It forms the strong structure of many animals, including the bones of humans. Phosphorus can form complex chains that become insoluble and very slow to break down. Although phosphorus is abundant on the Earth's crust, free phosphorus for most plants to use is incredibly scarce and most smaller plants have evolved to have it in scarcity. Perennials like most trees are more well adapted to take up large amounts of phosphorus through huge root systems and years and years of biological interaction with the soil, mostly fungi. There is evidence of a phosphorus cycle in nature as well.

Potassium is much more free flowing and abundant. It is a "soft" mineral and one of the first minerals to be released in decomposition. The only conditions that make it tie up for plants are alkalinity. There aren't many aerobic soil microbes that help release or cycle it, it mostly stays ionic. It also antagonizes slower moving "hard" minerals like calcium. So we can throttle and steer potassium, especially since plants need it in different amounts throughout the life cycle, and use it for different types of growth at different times. We can source that potassium organically and don't need much biology to release it, and have the ability to time it.

The saying goes, "Calcium is king". The problem with hydroponic growing is you can never truly make everything available and have in reserve at the same time in the right ratio. This is why in hydro you have to tweak the formula 2 or 5 times throughout the life cycle. The cations in particular, are always getting in the way of each other, and with very little soluble calcium sources, you can't feed that much calcium without it becoming a problem or overdoing it on nitrate or chloride. But calcium plays one of the most important roles in soil, it provides structure in the electrostatic framework of the soil complex. With enough calcium, you don't need perlite. Without calcium, even with perlite, you will end up with tight compacted soil. So we know we need to keep calcium high in our soil, even if some of that calcium isn't available.

Boron and silicon are all connected to calcium to build strong cell walls, and support calcium in building a strong healthy plant frame and structure. Boron is also pretty free flowing and doesn’t create insoluble forms easily, but because it is required in small amounts, it is often fleeting and easily removed or leached from soil. Silicon is highly reactive and although abundant, very little is plant available. There is also a silicon cycle in nature and geology, and it can displace carbon, i.e. petrified wood. Most plants have the ability to pull some silicon from soils through root exudate action.

Iron, manganese, zinc, and copper are all necessary for various plant functions, but are generally reactive and oxidizing metals. They tend to exist in nature as oxides. They need to stay available in soil for plants to a certain degree, although a soil can hold a reserve of it and can release some through biological activity. However, the lack of these elements in soil will greatly reduce the diversity of soil biology. But too much will inhibit a diverse biology. It needs to stay in balance.

Stay tuned for some concepts and starter soil recipes....
 
Excited to see your recipes and any other information you contribute.

I happened to search to see if slownickel had been mentioned here on the island this morning. It seems as though you have an ability to take your science knowledge and write it in a form I can understand slight better than Slow. Not a knock on slow as he has me questioning my approach for the past several years.
 
So we established that its not efficient to throw everything into a mixed living soil and expect the biology alone to do all the heavy lifting with the right timing...

So where do we start on a "lighter" soil mix? (I don't mean lighter in the sense of weight or density)

Well, we can begin to design a soil for the source water that will be used. The first step is to test your source water if using tap or well. With RO water, we can assume unbuffered pH and nearly zero TDS.

This will help us decide what kind of base we want to use.

You can choose horticultural substrates as your base and aeration, such as peat or coco, and perlite or pumice, respectively. Or you can source things more naturally and locally from soil aggregate shops around you. Specifically you are looking for inert soils an aeration rocks that are low in aluminum, arsenic, cadmium, and don't have much or any nutritive contribution, other than maybe silicates. A good top soil is a healthy mix of loam or humus, sand, silt, and clay.

For example, this is what is around me right now. Cheap top soil for $25 per yard, and bulk 1/2" red stone at $86.25 per ton.
https://www.esforest.com/products/soil/
https://www.esforest.com/products/bulk-stone/

If you are using inputs like this from new or unknown sources, it is best to get each product a proper soil analysis before using.

Even if using coco or peat, I like to add about 5% of a good real top soil mix, like the one above, that contains some amount of clay, to the entire base mix.

If you have RO water, you may not want to consider a sphagnum peat moss base for your soil, as peat generally comes very acidic out of the bale and requires buffering, and will continue to degrade and drop pH quickly as it is being used and going through subsequent wet/dry cycles. You can still use peat if that is to your liking, but you will need to buffer it with at least more than one amendment, preferably more than one compound, with more than one particle size. For example, you would use calcitic lime or VanSil, in addition to pelletized lime or chunky oyster shell. There is even an amazing amino-coated lime product that releases considerably faster, but also has some organic nitrogen content.

One comment on coco...lots of organic soil guys say that coco is anti-fungal and will not build good soil microbe diversity. The anti-fungal compounds in coco are found in the oils, compounds like caprylic acid, often found in pre-ripe coconuts and in the oily/meaty parts. Good quality coco is from mature and aged coconut husks that have been well grown and properly processed and rinsed. There is no oil left in it. I have seen plenty of examples of healthy fungal hyphae growing in coco. Sterilized coco is even used at commercial mushroom farms. Coco is still plant derived and was once part of a fruit, so of course it will decompose to the forces of nature at some point. Fungi is the real king of the forest.


Now that you have your base substrate figured out, and your choice of buffer, we can move on to the base mix rates.

This will depend on the water holding capacity of the substate you are using. There is no one-size fits all recipe when you are going at this using science and analytics. Anything short of that is guessing and I hate guessing.

Good quality coco has a roughly 60-65% water holding capacity. Peat is closer to 70-75% (without perlite), but can be hydrophobic when first used and not hold as much. Your top soil of choice will have something similar, usually around 75%.

You can test your water holding capacity of your starting base, before adding aeration. To do this, get the tare weight of an empty pot, fill it with a measured amount of your base, and water it to full saturation. After one hour, weigh the container and subtract the weight of the pot. Next, dump out the pot into an ovenproof container, and bake the base mix in the oven at the lowest temperature, usually 170F or lower, until completely dry. Now weigh the remaining amount. The difference is your water weight, which can be computed to your overall water holding capacity percentage.

You want to ideally be around 55-65% depending on how often you want to water, and this will give you an idea of how much aeration you need to add. For example, if you were at 75% WC and you want to get to 60%, you would need to add 20% aeration material. Or if your starting base is at 80% WC and you want to get to 55%, you would add <30% aeration.

Once you have decided on an aggregate mix, you can get everything mixed up and take a uniform sample, and send it off the a soil testing lab. This will cost you around $50 and always gives you the numbers on the base that you can always go back to. This will be your guide as to what to amend and how much...

Don't use a university lab, as they will only give their take on how much nitrogen to put down. Use a reputable private lab like Logan Labs, Spectrum Analytic, or International Ag Labs. Whatever lab you choose, stick to that lab, as these numbers are are somewhat relative and only will give you a baseline that you can track positive or negative changes.
 
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Laying out some gold for the people here brother. I myself had a few rude awakenings last few years to my own ignorance as an organic farmer of many years. USDA certs and omri listings are pay to play clubs regardless. Plants don’t discriminate on their sources. Mineral nutrition is mineral nutrition. I don’t recall who I heard make the statement: “find me synthetic nitrogen on the periodic table, I’ll wait” and I felt that in my soul 😂

Less bro, more know. I support this thread entirely. Look forward to tuning in more as it develops. Always good conversations in your presence. I truly appreciate that about you boss 👊
 
starter soil recipes....
yeh I am so scientific ..to a bale of Promix ..I just add a bag or so of worm castings.

most of a bag of hen pelts [with calcium] some guano [with phosphorous]

and maybe some potassium sulfate

my style is :

"hope thats not too much because I don’t have a real recipe"

things are doing quite well

if notice any leaf colour i don't like I water one or twice with calcium and magnesinum nitrate..at 300 ppm

then I only water after that

I did exclusively hydro for 40 years
 
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Good quality coco has a roughly 60-65% water holding capacity. Peat is closer to 70-75% (without perlite), but can be hydrophobic when first used and not hold as much. Your top soil of choice will have something similar, usually around 75%.
I charge / cal nit my coco ONCE like hydro when I switched to “organic"

I feel any problems I have had with organic may come from not using ph adjusted water and thee water uncharging th coco..

[due to eventual lack of buffering ?]

Just my fear...I would rather to use a good percent of coco mixed with the promix

bought half a ton of jiffy slabs cheap a decade ago..and i tear them apart and charge..I will not buying different coco..

it has worked well over the years ..iwouldmlike to continue..maybe I should just feed ph 6 adjusted water
but the freakin hose and wand is so much faster ...than pump from res
 
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Nearly every mineral salt can be purchased with an OMRI label on it. Costs the producer more money, and they just pass it down to the consumer. No real difference in potassium sulfate that is or isn't OMRI listed, neither will injure microbes in your soil, and the OMRI one might even be less refined and contain more undesirables. IMO, just another way they control our food supply.

Now there is such thing as organic nitrogen, but it isn't guano or manure, as those are just as high in nitrates as the refined nitrate salts, and often come with all sorts of impurities. What were those animals fed to produce that manure? Were they given antibiotics? Even bat guano has proven to be loaded with lead and other heavy metals, and bats feed off of mosquitos, and we bomb mosquitos with insecticides nearly everywhere that humans and mosquitos live side-by-side. Plus, guanos and manures will attract pests and the nitrogen is soluble and fleeting, will burn if overdone, and rinse out quick.

"Organic" nitrogen is protein based. It is the other end of that nitrogen cycle. The proteins break back down into amino acids, and those aminos can either be taken up by the plant directly, or broken down further by microbes into nitrate. The difference is that the plant's root exudates can trigger and throttle this conversion as needed, so you won't burn your plants with too much N, and you will also feed your soil microbes.
 
yeh I am so scientific ..to a bale of Promix ..I just add a bag or so of worm castings.

most of a bag of hen pelts [with calcium] some guano [with phosphorous]

and maybe some potassium sulfate

my style is :

"hope thats not too much because I don’t have a real recipe"

things are doing quite well

if notice any leaf colour i don't like I water one or twice with calcium and magnesinum nitrate..at 300 ppm

then I only water after that

I did exclusively hydro for 40 years
Honestly, thats not a bad approach. I would add more lime to the ProMix, there isn't ever enough and since 2020 ProMix has been shorting the lime in their bales quite a bit. I honestly throw about a solo cup worth of calcitic lime or VanSil into each bale of promix. If you get this right, you shouldn't have to ever pH your water.

The worm castings you are adding is like a microbial inoculant and enough N to get the party started. Then you just need some additional calcium and phosphorus to charge that mix. Guano won't be my to-go (see above), but calphos or bone meal would work great, in the right amount. You could go over your need for P and it wouldn't hurt much, since that P is insoluble. If you plan on reusing the soil over and over, that P will get eaten up eventually. I just like the accuracy and precision of using a soil test.

The hen pellets, is that Nutri-Rich 4-3-2? If so, thats good shit, literally! Has a ton of calcium in it, pretty low K, and a decent slow source of N. Its just pricey for some people, depending on where you are. Which is why I don't recommend it often.

One or two additional shots of soluble calcium and nitrogen to really push the vegetative growth. I wouldn't use magnesium nitrate ever. If you need more N, great opportunity to get more calcium in there. More than likely, if you added enough compost, top soil, or worm castings, you probably have a few crops worth of Mg already in there.

From there, you can just use the potassium source of your choice to throttle the whole feed, either K sulfate or a top dress like alfalfa. If you have a good eye and sense for it, no need to be ultra scientific and test everything. But if things go awry, you won't know exactly where you stand.
 
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Also, without soil testing, you have no idea how much iron you have, which is often through the roof in compost or worm castings. Too much iron hurts flavor and inhibits other trace metals. Often times, when coming up with a custom trace feed for these recycled soil mixes, they will need zero iron in the feed for the first few crop cycles.
 
Honestly, thats not a bad approach. I would add more lime to the ProMix, there isn't ever enough and since 2020 ProMix has been shorting the lime in their bales quite a bit. I honestly throw about a solo cup worth of calcitic lime or VanSil into each bale of promix. If you get this right, you shouldn't have to ever pH your water.

The worm castings you are adding is like a microbial inoculant and enough N to get the party started. Then you just need some additional calcium and phosphorus to charge that mix. Guano won't be my to-go (see above), but calphos or bone meal would work great, in the right amount. You could go over your need for P and it wouldn't hurt much, since that P is insoluble. If you plan on reusing the soil over and over, that P will get eaten up eventually. I just like the accuracy and precision of using a soil test.

The hen pellets, is that Nutri-Rich 4-3-2? If so, thats good shit, literally! Has a ton of calcium in it, pretty low K, and a decent slow source of N. Its just pricey for some people, depending on where you are. Which is why I don't recommend it often.

One or two additional shots of soluble calcium and nitrogen to really push the vegetative growth. I wouldn't use magnesium nitrate ever. If you need more N, great opportunity to get more calcium in there. More than likely, if you added enough compost, top soil, or worm castings, you probably have a few crops worth of Mg already in there.

From there, you can just use the potassium source of your choice to throttle the whole feed, either K sulfate or a top dress like alfalfa. If you have a good eye and sense for it, no need to be ultra scientific and test everything. But if things go awry, you won't know exactly where you stand.
Or let’s just admit…if yo shit ain’t gonna be as green as you want at the end of stretch ain’t nothin gonna save you as easy as CaNO3

I ain’t even gonna recommend super triple phosphate to load P on day 1. @Rootwise can free it from Ca later and you may not need P ever again

maybe trolling a wee bit. But some shit flat works
 
Or let’s just admit…if yo shit ain’t gonna be as green as you want at the end of stretch ain’t nothin gonna save you as easy as CaNO3

I ain’t even gonna recommend super triple phosphate to load P on day 1. @Rootwise can free it from Ca later and you may not need P ever again

maybe trolling a wee bit. But some shit flat works
Not trolling at all! Triple Super is your best bang for your buck at 0-46-0! And it’s still derived from soft rock phosphate/calphos. I haven’t posted a full recipe yet, but I’m treading lightly for the organic folks right now.

Also, yes. I learned from Bob Wilt, to just pulse a healthy dose of Calcium Nitrate 2-3 times through veg and stretch! Really hard to beat it. Sure you could feed PacificGro and micro used gypsum instead to keep it more organic, but it just doesn’t have the same punch and fish products are great for maintaining N, but nearly impossible to play catch up with N if you are behind the mark.
 
Not trolling at all! Triple Super is your best bang for your buck at 0-46-0! And it’s still derived from soft rock phosphate/calphos. I haven’t posted a full recipe yet, but I’m treading lightly for the organic folks right now.

Also, yes. I learned from Bob Wilt, to just pulse a healthy dose of Calcium Nitrate 2-3 times through veg and stretch! Really hard to beat it. Sure you could feed PacificGro and micro used gypsum instead to keep it more organic, but it just doesn’t have the same punch and fish products are great for maintaining N, but nearly impossible to play catch up with N if you are behind the mark.
Being an organic guy I appreciate your approach. But I am here to learn with an open mind and ready for you to throttle up once you see fit
 
Thanks for this!! Seems like I cant duck the soil test any longer. Once this snow stops, I'll mix everything together and go from there.

whats wrong with magnesium nitrate? and, if I remember correctly, did you mention not adding neem cake to the soil mix? are you taking any foliar questions in this thread? If I were to mix all the soil I have around here and add the amendments I accumulated over the years before I sent it in for an analysis, how long would you recommend letting it compost before I send it in?
 
Laying out some gold for the people here brother. I myself had a few rude awakenings last few years to my own ignorance as an organic farmer of many years. USDA certs and omri listings are pay to play clubs regardless. Plants don’t discriminate on their sources. Mineral nutrition is mineral nutrition. I don’t recall who I heard make the statement: “find me synthetic nitrogen on the periodic table, I’ll wait” and I felt that in my soul 😂

Less bro, more know. I support this thread entirely. Look forward to tuning in more as it develops. Always good conversations in your presence. I truly appreciate that about you boss 👊
Just reading through this thread, and you nailed it!!! Less bro, more know!! Actually had to read it twice cuz the coffee hasn't kicked in😅
 
This is great, I recognize a few names from the old slownickel/icmag threads! Glad to be here. I've used kinsey ag labs and more recently Logan for my outdoor veggies and cannabis, but have never sent in a test on potting soil... As time goes on and the growshops diappear, I'm left constantly switching soils and each has a little learning curve... All that being said, I look forward to following along.
 
This is great, I recognize a few names from the old slownickel/icmag threads! Glad to be here. I've used kinsey ag labs and more recently Logan for my outdoor veggies and cannabis, but have never sent in a test on potting soil... As time goes on and the growshops diappear, I'm left constantly switching soils and each has a little learning curve... All that being said, I look forward to following along.
Hmmmm. Grow shops are disappearing? I never thought about that happening, no grow shops around here, lucky to find stuff at the tractor or big box stores. Is everyone just going 'online' to shop?
 
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