Blumats

how did you connect that ring?
i have blumats new ring but its trash connections aren't even the right size pain to use.
 
When I was using the Tropf Blumats I was concerned about having a "run-away" if it was connected directly to a large water supply... so I just used a reservoir(s) like you are. I experimented with a few different ones. I undoubtably would have come home to a flooded tent had I have not done that.

Are you running nutes through your system as well?... I never did.

For other curious folks:

*If you're going to use a reservoir (without a pump of course), you have to elevate the tank over the soil level to get head pressure... but even 30cm is enough, 60cm is better.

*Most run-aways are caused by bumping the carrot when working with the plants, etc.
 
When I was using the Tropf Blumats I was concerned about having a "run-away" if it was connected directly to a large water supply... so I just used a reservoir(s) like you are. I experimented with a few different ones. I undoubtably would have come home to a flooded tent had I have not done that.

Are you running nutes through your system as well?... I never did.

For other curious folks:

*If you're going to use a reservoir (without a pump of course), you have to elevate the tank over the soil level to get head pressure... but even 30cm is enough, 60cm is better.

*Most run-aways are caused by bumping the carrot when working with the plants, etc.
It’s a 27 gallon tote so if I do get a runaway it won’t be too bad. The sensors help with that too so I can monitor from work etc. Yes I’m running CropSalt
 
I had full intentions of using the Blumats all the time and dialing in the optimum water tension in the soil, for a more consistent grow (outcome).

However, over time, I have taken the approach to more intentionally mimic "what might happen in nature" (since I only grow for personal use) and that includes wet times, dry times, too much light, too little light, etc, etc.. the only thing I never want to mimic is pest pressure.

I don't think the caps are the only thing that goes wonky with bumping the carrots... for the most part, I think its the ceramic loosing contact with the soil, causing them to signal that the carrot is dry...

But, they are great for times when you might want to get away for a few days and don't want to leave the watering up to someone else... you have to set the system up well in advance and have it functioning efficiently though... I don't think I could set the system up and expect that it would work correctly in a couple of days (even after having a good deal of experience using them)... after all, the plants/soil may not require/demand water for 3-4 days after the initial set up. (I think it would likely take a couple of weeks of fully trust the set up.)

That is the first nute line that I have heard anyone say they successfully use with a system like yours... not to suggest there aren't others, I just haven't seen people name them.
 
*Most run-aways are caused by bumping the carrot when working with the plants, etc.


Ive found that most run off come when my dripper clogs or my res drains empty. That lets the carrot dry up. then once it starts watering again it will drop the whole damn res.

I use a 5 gal bucket for a res which is feed a few times a day from a larger res. So it can only flood about 5 gals max before Ill notice.
 
Ive found that most run off come when my dripper clogs or my res drains empty. That lets the carrot dry up. then once it starts watering again it will drop the whole damn res.

I use a 5 gal bucket for a res which is feed a few times a day from a larger res. So it can only flood about 5 gals max before Ill notice.
If the res drains empty, there can also be issues with air locks in the lines. This grow, I'm only using small reservoirs, through the lines, and straight to the drippers... no carrots. I only want to meter the water on the soil instead of the flash flood with a watering can. However, the problem is the same carrots or no, once the res is empty, if you have an excess of line feeding the plant, the dip in the line anywhere (below the carrot/dripper level) can cause an air bubble to develop and an air lock to occur... I make sure to purge the lines anytime the res goes dry.

If you have left the carrot to dry up for too long, you'll have no choice but to pull it out of the soil, rehydrate it and refill it with water... always make a new hole on reinstallation IMHO.

If you are feeding through the res as well, there might be the instance where the line is clogged with a small amount of solids from the nutes (anything solid that is in the bottom of the res that might not otherwise get into the line)... you might have to pull the line out of the carrot and purge the line... but nothing you said indicates that you are having this issue... I just thought I'd mention it for someone who does...

I'll save one more post and warn people about carrots that have been in storage for a long time. The metering valve on the carrot can sometimes be left in a position where it is pinching the silicone line for long enough that it adheres to itself (internally)... it's always worth while to pull the line through the metering valve far enough that you can roll the line between your fingers... IF it is/was stuck you will feel a little "pop" as the line regains the proper shape.
 
@WrinkledNugSack all good advice I just fill that carrot up right there with the 3mm coming out of it self. No soaking needed. I run the same way no dripper just straight 3mm I would get clogs with the drippers. The rings have been working well so far 2 run no clogs yet running jacks.

Like you mentioned keeping the res refilled is key to avoiding all these issues. I have my 5 gal fill 3 times a day for a 5 by 5 works great keeps it topped off but still have good flood protection.
 
Ive not really made any major adjustments in 90 days on 3 of the carrots (just dialled them all back about a month ago to be drier later in flower) Only one did I have to fiddle a bit with. I think it helps I’m running lower EC (below 2 the whole run) CropSalt dissolves really well and you can’t even tell there is nutrients in the water by the colour. I’m a big fan. No issues at all with clogging so far.
 
It "appears" that your rings can be opened up to clean them out (should you ever get a blockage)... or have they been glued or bonded into one solid peice?
 
There are a lot of great tips in this thread. I've also heard if the carrot has too much perlite/pumice in contact with it, it can cause a runaway. The suggestion was to use some of whatever media you're using with all the perlite/pumice picked out, and use it as a sort of well for the carrot to sit in. I've not used them yet, but I'm very curious to try them, and probably will try them at some point. Thanks for all the info and tips.
 
There are a lot of great tips in this thread. I've also heard if the carrot has too much perlite/pumice in contact with it, it can cause a runaway. The suggestion was to use some of whatever media you're using with all the perlite/pumice picked out, and use it as a sort of well for the carrot to sit in. I've not used them yet, but I'm very curious to try them, and probably will try them at some point. Thanks for all the info and tips.
honestly i dont recommend them I only still use them because I already sank so much money into it.
 
I hear the major pita is washing the carrots. I'd rather buy an ultrasonic cleaner to speed up washing them over investing in a whole new drip system

The whole point of this thing is to not spend money AFAIK

Make sure you use pekacid

I heard good things about cropsalt.com but haven't had a chance to test run it yet, also my people demand organics for health reasons
 
Personally, I have never had a problem with washing the carrots... a brush for the ceramic portion on the outside, and a bottle brush for the inside... I think I got both brushes at the Dollar Store.

I don't regret buying and using the Blumats, because at the time, I was super busy and it simplified things. However, like a myriad of other growing practices/do-dads, I haven't used mine for a number of grows now... and, IMHO, there is no substitute for hand watering each plant; more accurately hand/eye analysis on the amount of water to apply.

After accepting/employing the KISS principal for my grows (soil, water, light) a lot of the techniques and practices that I used to use have gone by the wayside... in particular if I didn't see any tangible benefit to using them... like teas, microbes, ph meters, etc, etc. (What is invaluable for one grower may be a total waste of time and money for another) Unlike making and applying teas, I will use them again at some point when I think that I might have to go away from home for a short while.
 
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